Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide's concrete price guide does not give an Arizona figure. Nationally it cites an NRMCA average near $108 per cubic yard of ready-mix, and says homeowners usually pay $119 to $147 a yard once delivery and placement are included. Orders below 10 yards often carry a short-load charge of roughly $53 a yard. Keep in mind that the material is the smaller part of a finished slab; excavation, base rock, forms, reinforcement and finishing labor make up most of the bill.

There is no single definition. People generally use it for a low-cost hard surface such as tamped decomposed granite, compacted crushed rock, or native soil blended with a bit of cement. Those can work for a garden path or a spot nobody drives on. They will not hold up under a car, carry water off reliably or stay flat the way a reinforced slab on compacted base does.

A front-yard concrete slab or driveway appears on the City of Goodyear's homeowner permit FAQ list, so plan on the permit step. We confirm what your particular job needs before pouring. HOA approval is usually a separate step, and the city points out that following your CC&Rs is the owner's responsibility.

It is, with adjustments. We pour at first light while the ground is coolest, wet the base first and start curing right after finishing. On extreme days we may split the job into smaller pours. Afternoon pours in peak heat are the usual cause of chalky surfaces and early cracking.

Some cracking is built into how concrete behaves: it shrinks as it dries. Sawn or tooled control joints give that shrinkage a planned line to follow. A thin hairline between joints is normally cosmetic. Cracks that open wide, step up on one side or keep lengthening usually trace back to the base or to water, and those deserve a look.

HomeGuide suggests waiting 24 to 48 hours to walk on new concrete, a minimum of 7 days before driving a car onto it, and the full 28 to 30 days before a heavy load such as an RV or loaded truck. We write down the dates for your slab, since the mix and the weather shift them.

HomeGuide's resurfacing guide draws the line roughly here: minor flaking and cracks under 1/4 inch on a stable slab can be repaired or resurfaced, while large cracks, crumbling, spalling or movement mean replacement. We check the surface, the base and the drainage around the slab before recommending either.

For cars and SUVs, 4 inches over compacted base rock is typical. HomeGuide recommends 6 inches for heavy vehicles such as RVs, trailered boats and loaded work trucks, and those pads usually get heavier steel too.

If the current slab is solid, usually yes. We saw a straight edge, add dowels or an isolation joint, and pour the new strip at the same slope. Fresh concrete will look lighter than the old slab at first, and we can show you ways to blend the two.

Goodyear's homeowner permit FAQ includes a front-yard concrete slab or driveway among the projects that need a permit. We confirm the requirement for your job, and most HOAs want to approve the plan as well.

HomeGuide estimates 30 to 40 years for a concrete driveway that gets basic care. A well-compacted base, sensible joint spacing, water kept away from the edges and periodic sealing all push toward the long end.

A certain amount, yes, since concrete shrinks as it hardens. Joints steer that shrinkage into neat lines and steel keeps stray cracks closed. Wide cracks or ones with a height difference are not normal and usually point to the base.

Height and slope, yes, exactly. Color is harder: new concrete starts lighter, and the old slab has weathered. Many owners stain or seal both areas together, or add a decorative band at the seam so the change looks planned.

Usually by wheelbarrow or a pump line through the side yard. We measure the gate and the path at the estimate. A pump costs more but protects landscaping and shortens the pour, which counts in summer heat.

Light colors and textured surfaces stay cooler than dark, smooth ones. Broom texture and pale exposed aggregate are both good picks, though shade from a cover or a tree does more than any finish.

Light walking is generally fine after a day or two. Give it about a week before heavy furniture or a grill goes back, and longer for something very heavy like a hot tub. We write down the dates for your slab.

Sealed stamped concrete can be slick when it is wet. On walks, steps and pool areas we mix a non-slip grit into the sealer, and for barefoot zones we suggest textured patterns like slate or flagstone.

HomeGuide's guidance is every 2 to 3 years. In Arizona sun, test it each spring: if water soaks in instead of beading and the color has gone flat, it is time.

Any concrete in direct summer sun gets hot. Light colors and textured patterns run cooler than dark, glossy ones. For pool decks and barefoot areas we recommend light earth tones and a low-sheen sealer.

Not as it is, because stamping needs fresh concrete. A stamped overlay, a thin cement-based topping pressed with a pattern, can go over a sound slab; HomeGuide prices those at about $7 to $20 a square foot. Our concrete repair page covers resurfacing.

Light, textured cool-deck coatings are made for this; HomeGuide describes them as non-slip and able to lower surface temperature. In direct sun, any pale finish beats a dark or shiny one.

Away from the pool, toward deck drains or the yard, so dirt and runoff stay out of the water. It should also keep water away from the house and the walls.

If the cracks are narrow and the slab is stable, yes. Cracks get filled first, then the new surface goes on. Sunken areas or wide, offset cracks should be replaced, because a coating will crack again right over them.

Not for typical deck replacement or resurfacing. We protect the water and finish during the work. Draining is a decision for a pool contractor and usually only comes up when the shell or coping is being repaired.

Swimming is usually fine the same day if you can get in another way. Foot traffic on a new coating is often OK within a day or two, and on new concrete after a couple of days. Furniture should wait about a week; we give you the exact timing.

For most sheds, 4 inches over compacted base rock is enough. Heavier shops, or buildings that will hold vehicles or machinery, should step up to 5 or 6 inches with thickened edges.

Any slab carrying a vehicle or a building should have it. Rebar keeps cracks tight and helps bridge small soft spots. Light walk and equipment pads can use wire mesh or fiber instead.

Measure the RV with the slide-outs extended, then add room to walk around it and open the doors. Many pads end up 12 to 14 feet wide and a few feet longer than the coach. Gate width and turning space matter as well.

We pump concrete over the wall or through the side yard, or bring it in by wheelbarrow for small pads. The route gets checked at the estimate.

Resurface if the slab is stable and the trouble is on top: flaking, stains, small cracks. Replace if panels have dropped, cracks are wide or offset, or the concrete is crumbling. HomeGuide uses about 1/4 inch as the rough crack-width cutoff.

Often. Mudjacking grout or polyurethane foam is pumped beneath the slab to raise it to grade. It suits panels that are intact but have dropped; badly broken panels are better replaced.

Usually. Filled cracks show up close, especially on colored or stamped concrete. Resurfacing hides old repairs under a new, uniform surface if looks matter.

Fine hairline cracks are common as concrete shrinks and are usually cosmetic. Keep an eye out for cracks that widen, let water in or develop a raised side; those are worth having checked.

No. We repair flatwork: driveways, patios, walks, pool decks and slabs. If cracks or movement point to the house foundation, we will recommend a structural engineer or a foundation specialist.